For our visit to Middleham, the weather chose to be heavy with rain, and in the afternoon it got worse. We were probably the only visitors that morning in Richard's principal residence in the North, once seat of Warwick the Kingmaker and then passed to Richard after Warwick's death in the battle of Barnet. Richard was educated here and chose to live chiefly here after his marriage with Anne Neville until the death of his brother Edward IV brought him back to London.

Richard's portrait outside the wall signals that this is a special place for Ricardians.

In the courtyard, a statue by Yorkshire artist Linda Thompson depicts Richard as King, crowned, without arms and with an indecipherable expression. His back is covered on the right side by a monstruos animal half dragon and half cock, and on the left side by a kind of devil. I'd like to know what was the symbolism intended by the author.

It gave me a strange sensation to think that Richard once actually lived between these walls, now ruined, that he held his council here, that these very stones saw Richard and Anne having feasts, laughing, riding, ruling. The Great Hall is smaller than I imagined it to be, and only with a strain of imagination is possible to hear the echo of jesters.

In the afternoon the rain intensified, and pictures of Markenfield Hall from the outside don't give it justice. A damp black swan swimmed in the pool. We met briefly Lady Deirdre Curteis and her husband, who open their private home a few times a year to visitors and to wedding couples. The living room was adorned with signed photos of Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, while the little chapel presented kneelers embroidered with white roses.

 next day: Gainsborough and Lincoln